Local artisans - Discovering the value of their work

Recently while in the mall I stopped by this shop.  As I was looking around I noticed a small stand by the door with some handmade soaps. Now being a soapmaker myself naturally I went across to take a look.

(Eucalyptus and Peppermint Essential oils with Fresh Aloe Vera gel)

The soaps were beautifully made. Full of colour and an array of fragrances were available. I admired the creative swirls. It was displayed in a lovely little stand with no packaging and I could tell that these soaps were imported. There was no information given on the soaps other than the fragrance. No ingredients listing, weight, and with some of the soaps I found it difficult to determine for sure what process was used.  What surprised me most of all was the price. This item was priced at nearly the equivalent of US$15.00.  As curious as I am, I proceeded to ask the staff members about the soaps. They were uninformed of what type of soaps the were or anything about the product. In sales you should always know your products. The only information they were able to offer me came from a bag that they would put the soaps in once purchased that listed the ingredients as: Purified water, saponified oils of Organic Olive oil, Organic Coconut oil, Palm, Shea butter, selected blend of essential/fragrance oils, zinc oxide and mica. I was only able to obtain more information after finding the company's website.

The way a soapmaker labels their ingredients vary. There are to ways of labeling in the industry that are perfectly acceptable. It can be listed as shown above or listed showing all ingredients used in a descending percentile order. Simply put, it is listed starting with the ingredient with the largest percentage first working down to the smallest percentage. For my own reasons I list every ingredient including the Sodium Hydroxide. I love the fact that my customers can see when ingredients such as Fresh Aloe Vera gel, Pureed Mango, Papaya, Fresh Coconut Milk,  Fresh Noni juice or Yogurt are used in my products. Both methods are fine and is a matter of preference for the artist. On my packages (as much as I love the look of naked soap I do package my products) I also list the weight of my soaps. So when a customer picks up a bar of my soap they know what they are getting. Any other questions they may have I can always answer them.

As much as I admired a fellow soapmaker's work this is the part that I found very sad. There are so many talented local soapmakers that are here in my little Caribbean island, producing  quality products. With prices ranging between US$5.50 - US$7.50 that some may find too high a price to pay. Yet they would have no qualms paying the price for the imported soap.

 We are surrounded by so many talented artisans that work hard to create works of art. Something that a  lot of thought time and love is poured into the making of this product yet the value of their work isn't recognized.

Speaking as a fellow soaper I know the prices that we sell our products could be easily priced in a range between $6.50 - $9.00. Yet we don't. Why? Simply because that price would be a purchasing barrier. Are our products worth it though? Definitely.

(Soap made with Activated Charcoal, Aloe Vera and Goat's Milk)

With the many markets and fairs that in the last few years that have popped up, local artisans have gotten more exposure. As a result there are those that have discovered the wonderful products that local artisans have to offer. And we thank you. You are the reason that we are still here. Striving forward. But to those of you that have not tapped into the buy local party, you're missing out. There is a plethora of quality locally made products right here. In your neighbourhood, State, Country.

We've seen the "Buy local" posts circulating the social networks. Not only do I support this I also encourage others to do the same. Take some time to discover some of the local talent in your area. I don't know an artisan that won't be willing to talk to you about their products.They can answer any of your questions. You can hear the passion in their voice, see it in their faces. You are buying a product that is made with love. There is so much planning, care and consideration that goes into the making of their products.

We are coming to the end of another year. When making your resolutions/plans/goals for 2015 make one of them the choice to buy local.

(A gift basket that my company is giving away this Christmas made up of locally handcrafted products.)

Eucalyptus and Peppermint

It's been a while since I've posted. Life has gotten so busy lately that everything seems to be put on hold. We've done two wonderful markets in the last few months but unfortunately had to cancel our market scheduled for 6th December. However we will continue to take orders for packages while stocks last.

Balancing the restaurant life and soaping life is still quite new. I thought I got the hang of it then my days at the restaurant were increased and it were as if a monkey wrench were thrown into the works. Ugh. Effective time management is what this is all about. Now everything seems to be running smoothly once more.

I'm very lucky to be able to be doing two things that I enjoy. Cooking and making soaps and body care products. One of these things I obviously enjoy more than the other. Hmmm. It's funny how my once treasured cooking utensils are now being eyed for soaping.

Yesterday I prepared a special order for my dearest cousin. Yes we do special orders. 4lbs of a Eucalyptus and Peppermint Essential oil soap. Wonderfully made with fresh Aloe Vera gel and naturally coloured with Chlorophyll.

One of the things I enjoy about making soap is it's unpredictability. No matter how well we plan there is no knowing how an oil or ingredient would react. This is particularly true of floral essential or fragrance oils. 

In this case the addition of the Aloe Vera gel (even though I've used Aloe Vera in many of my other recipes) resulted in my batch reaching heavy trace (a point of no return where the oils and lye have emulsified and begins to thicken) and some quick thinking.

My planned hanger swirl had been scrapped and was replaced with a simple spoon swirl. Definitely was not disappointed. I don't think my cousin would be either.

This recipe I believe is definitely a keeper and a bar is surely going into the Sensational Soaps Christmas Hamper giveaway.

Something new

They say patience is a virtue but when it comes to me and soaping it is hard to remain virtuous. In the process of planning purchases and I find myself with an itchy trigger finger. Waiting on supplies time to get creative with what we have on hand.

So what's a girl to do? Well go to the lab and whip up a new recipe. Some Olive oil infused with Rosemary and peppermint, Sweet Almond oil, Coconut oil, Palm oil, Apricot Kernel, Cocoa butter and Pumpkin seed butter. A wonderfully nourishing blend of oils with Coconut milk, fresh Aloe Vera and Noni. Not the recipe that I had in mind when I made the Noni juice Oh. How could I forget the Turmeric.

So what happens when I don't have my base oils. Amazing new recipes!

Photo Shoot

On August 8th Sensational Soaps would have been a registered business for 1 year. Yay!! It has been a year of learning and experimenting. Even though I've been making soaps for 12 years I've learnt that making them for a living is quite different.

We started our business with soaps scented with fragrance oils (aromatic oils that are blended using essential  oils and synthetic compounds) and a few with essential oils. Now we are making changes to incorporate a larger selection of "All natural " soaps. That is to say soaps that don't contain any synthetic compounds. It is important to remember however that just because a soap is natural doesn't mean that it wouldn't irritate the skin. Even essential oils can cause irritation for those with sensitive skin. So I recommend doing a small patch test before using any new product.

The fragrance oils used are Phthalate free and any one of our soaps can be ordered by the loaf  unscented. This would take 4 to 6 weeks to fulfill.

Last weekend we took advantage of the setting sun and took some of our soaps out for a photo shoot for our new website that we are building. At the moment this wouldn't be an Ecommerce website but one where you can simply find out information on our products and ingredients used.

Here are the photos below.

 Chocolicious

 Vanilla Latte (Made with Goat's Milk)

 Chocola-Menthe (With Peppermint Essential Oil)

 Goat's Milk Oatmeal and Honey 

So........ Is it natural?

My journey into the world of making skincare products has been a wonderful journey. Being on a continuous quest for knowledge. One question that has come up time and time again is can we label our product as "Natural".

As a creator of handmade skincare products I want to provide the best product possible for my customers. Ideally I would recommend having your products certified with the NPA or any such governing body. Realistically many of the cottage industry skincare businesses are unable to afford the expense of becoming certified.

So how do we handle this "Natural" thing? Just recently this was the discussion on a Facebook group of which I am a part. Actually this topic has come up so many times. As an artisan I want my customers to be well informed about what goes into my products without diluting the word "Natural". Let's look at the standards required to obtain Natural Certification set by the NPA.

The NPA Natural Standard

As stated by the NPA their standard is based on:

1. Natural Ingredients - A product labelled as "Natural" should be made up of only or mostly only natural ingredients and should be manufactured in a process to maintain the purity of the ingredients.

2. Safety - A product labelled as "Natural" should avoid any ingredient with a suspected human health risk

3. Responsibility - A product labelled as "Natural" shouldn't use animal testing in its development.

4. Sustainability - A product labelled as "Natural" should use biodegradable ingredients and environmentally friendly packaging.

This is meant to determine what "Natural " skincare product is and clarify what it isn't. Some of the NPA standards required to become certified are:

1. The product must be made with 95% natural ingredients (not including water.)

2. May contain only safe synthetic ingredients.

3. A synthetic or non natural ingredient can be used only when a natural alternative isn't available and there is no suspected human health risk.

Some of the banned ingredients include: Parabens, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Petroleum/Mineral Oil/Paraffin, Chemical Sunscreen, Glycols, Phthalates, Synthetic Polymers (PVP, Acrylates), Formaldehyde donors, Ethoxylated ingredients (a process where ethylene oxide is added to alcohol and phenols to give surfactants), Ethanolamines (an organic chemical compound that acts like a weak base. It is toxic, flammable and corrosive, colourless with an ammonia like smell. Often abbreviated as MEA, ETA,)

The NIRC has its own Natural Product                              (Photo courtesy trinichow.com)

Labelling Guideline.

100% Natural/All Natural

This can only be met when the ingredients have met the NIRC criteria for natural ingredients.

Natural

Where 95% of the ingredients must meet the NIRC criteria for natural ingredients. The remaining 5% may come from ingredients that do not meet this criteria but must not include synthetic fragrances, artificial colours or ingredients from petrochemicals. The toxicity level of each ingredient must be minimal.

Made With/From Natural Ingredients

These products must contain 70% ingredients that meet the NIRC criteria. the remaining 30% may come from ingredients that do not meet this criteria but must not include synthetic fragrances, artificial colours or ingredients from petrochemicals. These products may not display the NIRC seal.

The NIRC has made an exception for "True Soap" once it falls into the following criteria.

It can only be labelled as "Natural" soap if the ingredients that go into it are lye and 100% natural ingredients according to, yes you guessed it, the NIRC criteria for natural ingredients.

It may be labelled as "Natural " soap only if All the ingredients are listed. Yes. this means nothing is listed as "Saponified oils of". List the lye.

"Natural" soap may not contain any synthetic or artificial ingredients including but not limited to artificial colours, synthetic fragrances, man made vitamins, solvents extracted oils or additional glycerin.

So how to address the the topic of labelling handmade products as natural? This is what I do. I don't put natural on the packaging. For me the word "Natural" just like the word "Organic" doesn't mean anything to me unless it has been certified natural. Don't underestimate the power of the seal. When I first started selling in August last year I was reluctant to d a full ingredient listing. My soap ingredients would be listed as "Saponified oils of". I was never very happy with that. It made me feel like if I was being dishonest. Now I give a full ingredient listing appearing in a descending order of percentage. Customers are capable of reading the list. In fact consumers today have become more product conscious. They are more discerning about not what only goes in their bodies but also what goes on it. Finally on my Facebook page I would use the terms such as home grown  as opposed to "Natural". Despite the fact that more than 95% of my ingredients are natural. It is a word that I have found to be over used and brings little comfort unless it is followed by a certified seal of approval.

Ensure that your labelling is TRUTHFUL and is not found to be misleading. There is no established regulatory definition for the term "Natural" in cosmetics. Don't use terms like "Natural as part of the ingredient statement as they must be listed by their common name without additional description. You are responsible for the ingredients you use. A supplier may list an item as "Natural" or "Organic" but it is your responsibility to ensure that it is safe when used.

For more information on obtaining natural certification or registering with the NIRC see the links below.



NPA Link  npainfo.org

NIRC Link http://naturalingredient.org/

Ecocert http://www.ecocert.com/en/natural-and-organic-cosmetics

Spa In My Kitchen

Everybody at some time needs a little pampering. Head out and get a mani-pedi, a massage or a facial. I love it but may not always have the time to do it. Let's face it. These days most of my spa experiences are found right in my own kitchen.

Citrus Body Polish

A simple gentle body polish with easy to find ingredients.

1/4 cup Himalayan salt (You can also use Sea Salt)

1/4 cup Coconut oil

1 tsp honey

1 tsp Lemon Juice

Simply mix the ingredients together and indulge. The original recipe (can't remember from where it originated) Included a couple teaspoons fresh crushed Rosemary. I didn't have fresh rosemary and instead used dried rosemary to make a wonderful infused oil. Ready to use for cooking or a pampering moment. Another herb infused oil I've used is Peppermint. I call that my pick me up polish.

To infuse an oil all you need is a clean mason jar , your oil of choice and herb of choice. Place herbs in your jar and top up with your oil. Place your jar in a crock pot with a little water and tun on low. I usually leave mine over night. Remove from the crock pot and let it sit for about a week shaking it occasionally. A little tip. Substitute the salt for sugar (no herbs) add 1 Vitamin E capsule to this recipe and you would have a homemade face scrub to help lighten those little dark spots.

Natural Local Honey (Photo credits trinichow.com)

Papaya Facial

I love this recipe. It's one of my favourite ways of pampering myself. Simple and yummy!

4 tsp Pureed Papaya

1 tsp Honey

1 tsp Yogurt. 

Simply mix the ingredients into a paste and apply to a clean face. Let it stay for 5 - 8 minutes and wash off.

Papaya is rich in antioxidants. The enzyme Papain that is found in papaya is a natural and gentle exfoliant. It contains an abundance of alpha-hydroxy acids which is known for its skin firming anti ageing properties. With its high alpha-hydroxy acid  this can be drying on the skin therefore we recommend that you leave this mask on your face no longer than 8 minutes. If you have dry sensitive skin no longer than 5 minutes.

Chocolate Oatmeal Face Mask

I love to add chocolate in my products.and this chocolate mask is soothing and smells divine.

1/3 Cocoa powder
4 Tbs Honey
1.5 Tbs Buttermilk or
2 Tbs Yogurt
2 Tbs Ground Oatmeal

Simply mix ingredients together and apply to a clean face.

Chocolate elevates the serotonin levels and is a wonderful antioxidant. It helps in the fight against free radicals that can damage the skin. The flavonoids found in dark chocolate is thought to increase blood flow to the skin.

Oatmeal is a natural gentle exfoliant while honey is a natural emollient.

Yogurt when used regularly can help lighten skin blemishes and shrink and tighten large pores. The lactic acid found in yogurt can help smooth and soften rough skin. It is moisturizing and helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

Buttermilk also contains alpha-hydroxy acid so it contains both skin lightening, exfoliating and skin tightening properties.

Three pampering recipes with ingredients that can be found in your own kitchen. Many of these fresh ingredients can also be found in our products.

So take time out to treat yourself to a nourishing no fuss pampering home spa treatment.

Something from Sensational Soaps

Pumpkin Spice

One of elder sisters' (I've got 4 of them) has always described me as being the creative one. But I would admit for years I just didn't see it. Even though I learnt to play the piano I would never be as good as me older sister. Music seemed to flow from her with ease while I struggled with the simplest of pieces. And if that didn't make me feel like a creative dud she could also paint! I honestly thought art classes was wasted on me.

My creative strengths lay elsewhere. It started in the kitchen. Every holiday celebration I would cook something completely new for the family. Something I never tried before. Mix it up a little. I remember my mom saying I shouldn't really test my skills at these family gatherings, just in case it didn't turn out the way it should. But cooking came so naturally for me. Food became my passion. Yay! I'm a chef!. Then my grandmother taught me how to make wine and in the true nature of my spirit I started making wines form anything I could get my hands on. I tested my boundaries once and taught myself how to crochet. I was actually good at it but didn't have the patience.

Then 12 years ago I came across and ad for a soap and candle making course. It was just a one day course and I was curious and tried it out. I was hooked. Unable to find any more courses to pursue this interest I bought every book and developed this craft on my own. The pots and pans that were once treasured for my many dishes were now seen as soap making equipment. I'm a soap making geek and I love it!

French Clay Tea Tree and Lavender with Yogurt

Today I enjoy making soaps using nature's nutrients. Including fruits such as Mangoes, Guavas and Noni grown right in our back yard. Fresh Aloe Vera gel to add a soothing and healing touch. Local honey for it's natural moisturizing qualities. Fresh Cucumbers and Papaya from local farmers. Each ingredient bringing its own special something to the product.

Mango and Coconut milk soap with Aloe Vera. Created for my daughter's birthday.

Milk soaps are made from Goat's Milk, Coconut Milk , Buttermilk and of course we can't forget the rewarding benefits of yogurt.

Goat's Milk Oatmeal and Honey

Soap making takes time and patience. The time spent sourcing and researching  ingredients is time that is well spent. I may not have had the patience for the piano and crochet but this I enjoy. Almost forgot how much fun chemistry can be.

Besides our local fruits, ingredients such as Clays and Himalayan salt are also used. Clays have a drawing quality while Himalayan salt contains minerals and is known to cleanse and detoxify the skin.

Himalayan Spa Bar

French Green Clay

Coconut milk and Lemongrass sprinkled with Himalayan salt. Pretty N' Pink

My personal favourites are the soaps that are made from coffee and chocolate. Chocolate, particularly dark chocolate is loaded with antioxidants and is a wonderful addition for some skin pampering for those with acne prone or have sensitive skin. It is both gentle and moisturizing.

Coconut Milk and Chocolate

Coffee is associated with waking up people. It can do the same for your skin. Caffeine has anti-inflammatory properties that can reduce inflammation and redness in the skin. It is also said to help reduce the appearance of cellulite and the exfoliating granules help improve circulation.

So yes. I found my creative spot. As Sheldon Cooper would say "That's my spot." I have learnt a lot in the last 12 years and I continue to learn still. I remember being told by a fellow soap maker and my rock star Ms Colleen Malwah-Aqui  that no matter how much we may know about a topic there is always a chance for us to learn even more. 

 This passion has had a natural expansion into the formulation of creams lotions and other skin care products. A wonderful world of lotions and potions. Confucius said. " Choose a job that you love and you will never have to work a day in your life." I would have to say that I agree.

 The products above can all be found at www.facebook.com/sensationalsoapstt.