The Change.

Have you ever thought about growing old? If you're in your twenties or younger my guess would be probably not. As a young woman in my twenties I know that was the last thing on my mind. After I turned thirty I believe I went into denial. I lied about my age so often that It was difficult to remember my actual age. Well hey. If my full head of hair wasn't giving  it away why should I.

But aging for men and women in society is very different. A man with graying hair is considered to be distinguished or a silver fox. I have never in my life heard a woman with graying hair described as a silver vixen. Well maybe with this younger generation things would begin to change for our male counterparts. Where as for some time now an older woman who pursues or dates a younger man is called a cougar a term I have never personally cared for. The male version has gone from stud to Manther. Hmmm. I've never been to big on labels and name calling.

Even when I was in my forties I didn't think much of what I would be doing in my older years. I still wasn't sure when that time would be. I would look at my Mother and thought of my grandmother and the only thing I knew for sure is I didn't want to be a burden on my daughter.

In 2013 I had a Total Abdominal Hysterectomy (TAH.) They unfortunately had to remove an ovary leaving me with one functional ovary. For any woman that may be facing having a hysterectomy let me say this. You should have support. Before and after the surgery. Luckily for me I found a group online (http://www.hystersisters.com/) that was a wealth of information and support. I don't think however anything could have prepared me for the emotional roller coaster ride that laid ahead. I remember dropping a napkin on the floor and bursting into tears because I couldn't pick it up. Hilarious now. Not so hilarious then. So 2013 was a land mark year for me. Had my baby motel removed, experienced a whirlwind of emotions and on the brighter side I turned my hobby into a business.

I didn't think anything could have been worse than those swinging moods. I was so wrong. 5 years later and Menopause was knocking at my door. I'm a little embarrassed to admit I didn't recognize the signs until some totally avoidable incidents at work. (I work full time at a restaurant as I build my business) It started with Night sweats. That's right. Night sweats in December 2017. Just like Hot Flashes these are sudden intense feelings of body heat that produces sweat during the night. This would happen about 3 - 4 times a night make having a restful nights sleep nothing more than a dream.

In  April of 2018 there was a subtle shift in my mood. I started becoming more and more irritable. I tried to just brush it off. My birthday was coming up in a little over a month and I put it off as being a little upset to turning 52. Two years before my daughter burst my bubble when she informed me I was going to be 50 and not 49 as I had thought. Yes. That 1 year made a difference.

Looking back over the last 2 months I understand now what exactly was happening to me. Had I recognized the signs sooner I could have saved myself and others from a lot of pain. So what is so different now? Yes. There are mood swings.These are more intense than when I experienced them 5 years ago. Or maybe they only seem that way. After my hysterectomy I only had my family to deal with but now I  have family, colleagues at work and staff. I have never been big on confrontation so I try to avoid it whenever possible. I'm also the person who puts other peoples feelings before my own. Dealing with the many personalities and the larger than life attitudes in the work place has become a larger than life struggle. There are days I would just cry for no particular reason.

I remember asking a colleague (with his annoying little quirks) to just stop as I couldn't handle his ways. Again I didn't know why I felt this way, I just did. He of course continued to be himself and one day 2 days before my birthday on what already had been the worst week he broke me. I went into work weak and emotional. Everyday after that has been a struggle.

It wasn't until after the first week of June I understood what was going on and why my emotions had betrayed me. I turned to my online group for answers and support. My older sisters had already gone through this change but none have experienced the swinging moods.  To date my symptoms are as follows:

1. Night Sweats
2. Sleep Problems
3. Irritability
4. Frequent Migraine
5. Fatigue
6. Mood Swings
7. Forgetfulness. And you thought pregnancy brain was bad.
8. A touch of paranoia for good measure.

As I battle to keep my moods under control in the work environment I cry  a lot more. Yesterday was a good day. I only cried 3 times during work. Unfortunately one of those times was in front of a Manager and colleague while she was confronting us with a problem my many  moods had created. I broke down completely and told them what I had been going through. Not exactly the way I wanted it done. In fact I'm not even sure that I wanted anyone at work to even know. It's like my private hell is being made public. Now, all  I need to find a way to deal with these changes. Ideally I'd like to take some time off ( aka vacation with extra time off) visit my doctor so we can work on a treatment that would allow me to function at work. Allowing my body the time to adapt to the HRT prescribed. This no doubt would be easier away from my work environment. If not well I guess I'd discover how supportive my colleagues at work are really.

I would like to note that a woman at any age who has had a hysterectomy with an Ooferectomy (removal of the ovaries) can experience Menopause. With every woman the experience is different. Under normal circumstances symptoms of Menopause can be experienced in the late forties to mid fifties.

I say Hey, What's going on.

The heading is from the first song played this morning from 4 non Blondes song What's up. It seemed appropriate since it's been a while we've posted anything.

Yay!! There is finally an outlet where you can purchase all of our wonderful products. Finally! All of Sensational Soaps products can be purchased at The Business Boutique, Suite 101B, Lower Ground Floor, Cross Crossing Shopping Centre, San Fernando.

https://www.facebook.com/thebusinessboutique/

Customers can shop in comfort and peruse the wide range of items The Business Boutique has to offer.

Danielle Small owner of The Business Boutique and an avid supporter for local entrepreneurs, carry all our products. Any promotions or giveaways run by Sensational is automatically extended to The Business Boutique.

This year we produced our Moringa soaps.Made with both Moringa oil and powder and gentle enough to be used on the face.

2017 we produced our first liquid soaps made available to our testers with great results . So we are looking forward to launching it hopefully in May 2018.

Also on the table for next year are skin loving moisturizers and masks perfectly paired with its elegant packaging.

We are currently closed for production and would look to rejoin the markets in May/June 2018.

Well that's all folks. At least just for now. We want to take this time to thank our customers for their continued support. And to all our customers near and far. From Sensational soaps we wish you a Merry Christmas and may 2018 bring you Joy, Good Health, Prosperity and Love.

My magnificent 7 for a face mask

Face masks are an ideal way to help care for your skin and its problems. Whether it is home made or store bought, there are certain ingredients I look for in my facial masks.

Now I love to whip up a face mask for myself in the kitchen using fresh ingredients but I know that that isn't everybody's cup of tea. So store bought is your alternative. With the store bought you can choose the dry mix. Personally for me this is another ideal way of customizing your mask. There are several mediums and a wide range of additives that can be used to mix your mask. Then there are the masks that are ready to use. While additives can still be added to these formulations It's best that they are not added to the container itself as it can disrupt the formulation leaving it open to contamination.

Ok. So I have not used a store bought face mask in a very long time but since I'm in the business of formulating my own skin care products I really don't need to. Not to mention I like knowing exactly what is going on my skin. But there are a few ingredients that I would look for in a facial mask that I would like to share with you.

1. Honey - Loaded with antioxidants helping in the removal of free radicals which damage the cells in our skin. It is a natural antiseptic and is an excellent humectant  meaning it has the capability to retain moisture.
   
2. Oats. Oatmeal is great for all skin types especially sensitive skin because of its anti inflammatory properties. It is both a natural exfoliant and moisturizer.
   
3. Avocado. Whether it is fresh off the tree, or in the form of an oil, butter or extract, I consider this to be a luxury pampering ingredient. It is a great source of antioxidant Carotenoids such as alpha carotene, beta carotene, beta-cryptoxanin, zeaxanthin and lutein. These compounds help fight free radicals to provide protection for the skin from environmental damage.
   
4. Cucumbers contain ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and caffeic acid of which both can help soothe skin irritations and reduce swellings. Which is probably why they work so well on puffy tired eyes. 
   
5. Vitamin E is not only a collagen and elastin booster but is also an antioxidant that works to block free radicals form the body that play a role in the ageing process.
   
6. Aloe vera is well know for its soothing qualities. It contains several different vitamins and minerals and is gentle enough to be used on all skin types
   
7. Clay- Natural clays have a cleansing and purifying properties and have been used on the skin for centuries. Knowing your skin type makes it easier to determine which clay is best suited for your skin. They are used to deep clean. Depending on which which ingredients are used with them, their properties may include - removing toxins, increasing circulation, exfoliating, tone and tighten pores, soften and smooth skin, hydrate and moisturize and absorbing excess oil.

Kaolin clay is fine grained with mild absorption properties. It is very gentle on the skin making it ideal for sensitive skin and those with dry to normal skin.It comes in several colours.

French Green Clay often referred to as Sea Clay  and Betonite clay are best suited for oily skin. It is great in cleansing masks with its powerful drawing properties and has the capability of really tightening pores. 

Rose clay is considered to be a type of kaolin clay and gently exfoliates and polishes the skin. This gentle cleansing action makes ideal for people with sensitive skin.

These are some of my go to ingredients in a face mask. Most of which can be found right in the kitchen or garden making it easy to pamper your skin.

 What are some of the ingredient you look for in a face mask?

Is it a soap or a drug?

I have been making soaps for over 12 years now and in that time I have learned so many things. Since opening my business Sensational Soaps I learnt that what claims I make about my products or the ingredients used, determines whether it is classified as a drug or soap.

Here in the lovely islands of Trinidad and Tobago there seems to be no regulations by which to follow when it comes to handmade soaps and body products. However if you plan to export your products you must meet certain standards that for some reason are not applied to the artisans that sell locally.

Many times I have been approached by a potential customer and the first question asked is " Do you have a soap that can remove dark spots" or acne and even scars. Well to answer that question simply  would be "No". Since there are no apparent guidelines to follow, we at Sensational Soaps adhere to the US and EU FDA regulations and do not attach any claims to our products; as it would change its category from a Cosmetic to a Drug. 

How does the FD&C define a cosmetic? As articles to apply to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractivenes or altering the appearance. Products included in this defination are skin moisturizers, purfumes, lipstick, nail polish, eye and facial makeup preparations, cleansing shampoos, hair colour and deoderant. 

https://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/GuidanceRegulation/LawsRegulations/ucm074201.htm#Definecosmetic

In this very link you can see that a drug is determined as an article that is used in diagnosis, treatment, cure, treatment or prevention of disease.


"But the lady/man at the other table said their soap can get rid of stretchmarks." Yes we have heard this. We have noticed that more and more soapmakers have popped up and they have not hesitated in attaching claims to their products. Be it directly or indirectly. Case in point. I recently came across a new soapmaker in the area. Beautiful soaps but I couldn't help but notice the description.

"This soap combines two ingredients that have been used for beauty purposes for centuries-Milk and Turmeric. Goat's milk is believed to delay signs of aging, act as an anti-inflammatory and moisturizer and packed full of nutrients and vitamins to nourish the skin. Turmeric has antseptic and antibacterial properties and help give skin that healthy glow. It is also thought to relieve some skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis."

Even attaching a claim to an ingredient can  imply that your product would yield the same result. The words that have given the qualities of a drug are "delay signs of aging, anti-inflammatory,
antiseptic and antibacterial. And even though it isn't said directly it is implied that because it contains Turmeric it can relieve psoriasis and eczema.

Every person is different. Where one customer may have had amazing results understand that these results would not be typical. If you are seeking to alleviate a skin condition, see your Dermatologist. If you are seeking skincare that is gentle and not loaded with chemicals, see you local experienced artisan.

Here is another fact for you. If a customer posts a review that claims extraordinary results on your page/website, you can be held accountable for that claim. It's your page/website ergo you are responsible for the information that is put out.

What do we offer you at Sensational Soaps? Simple. We offer you a carefully formulated handmade skin care products. A complete listing of ingredients in descending order of the % used. Our products can be described Moisturizing, Exfoliating, Cleansing, Conditioning, Relaxing, Soothing, Creamy, Fragrant, Pampering, Sensuous and Rejuvenating. There are other words that can also be used to describe our products that are permitted by the FD&C.

Why do people choose to make claims on their products?  Well, I can only speak for myself. Quite simply I didn't know any better. Soaping for yourself is one thing, soaping as a business is another. It was only after being connected to other artisans that have been in business longer than I have did I learn and understand. Another reason may simply be because they can.  We don't have an FDA watching over us therefore they can make as many claims as they wish.

So there it is. We are simply in the the business of skin care. We love our products and firmly believe that in adhering to these standards we wouldn't be misleading our customers. Our products are made in small batches to maintain quality and consistency. Most importantly we love what we do and are consistently looking to expand our product lines and searching for ways our service to you can be improved.

The Effects Of Poor Stock Management On Your Business

As a small business owner I know that one can get caught up in the daily business operations. We may spend hours in production or research and development and procrastinate on the more tedious tasks of inventory management.

I myself am guilty of postponing stock taking over and over again. However, improper management can be costing you time and money. I have seen it in both my own business and at my work place.

Particularly with small businesses poor inventory system can result in the business to fail. This not only affects production but can directly affect customer satisfaction and company ratings. Proper management system can increase sales while decreasing costs, yielding a bigger profit margin.

Our business is small and our storage area is it seems even smaller. But space even though it affects the amount you are able to store at any given time is no reason for ineffective stock management. By making inventory more of a priority it can result in a reduction of the inventory costs. While it may look like Christmas when I see big packages come to my door with all the goodies enclosed it's not always possible to order certain items in bulk.


                            (STOCK PHOTO)

Lets take a look at some of the consequences of an ineffective inventory management.

OVER BUYING: Other than the fact that this can take up precious space, this can also result in stock reaching its expiry date. Each day that an item sits in your stock room it is actually costing you money.

                       UNDER BUYING: Being out of stock negatively affects production and customer service. This in turn affects both your reviews and profit.While substitutes may be used it can in the end affect the quality of the end product at a cost to you.

CUSTOMER DISSATISFACTION: This in fact should speak for itself. Poor stock management can directly affect your customers. When you are constantly out of stock of a particular item/product ingredient it affects your customer service negatively. Case in point. The restaurant at which I work gets two different types of Parmesan cheese. One looks like it was hand grated (the preferred choice) the other shredded to a powder form. There is a definite difference in not only the taste but the performance of the two cheeses. A customer who was well acquainted with our Alfredo actually tasted the difference when we used the shredded cheese. So much so that they had mentioned it to the server. A meal that the customer usually finds enjoyable was somewhat less palatable. This of course was a direct result of the stocks' availability from the restaurant's supplier.

POOR PURCHASING DECISIONS: This results in excess or inadequate stock levels.

                                                                                                 (STOCK PHOTO)

With good inventory management practices there would be an increase in productivity customer satisfaction and in turn having a reduction in loss of goods. Monitoring of inventory trends is easier resulting in the ability to make the best decision that provide the greatest return.


There are several inventory management software systems available. My best advice is to find one that best fits you and your business. While it is possible to manually track you inventory, Inventory management software makes this process easier saving you wasted man hours and money.

The fine folks at https://craftybase.com/ offer a 2 weeks free trial. I do love this system. It made things so much easier for me and more than likely I would return to the service that they provide. My reasons for cancelling had nothing to do with their service but more with the exchange rate and having to make the painful decision on whether or not the business could pay for such a service at this time.

As not everyone can initially afford an inventory system, over the next few months we would be looking for some of the free systems available. We are excited to see what there is to offer found and give our thoughts as to their performance. We are going to be mindful that free systems come with several limitations and would be taking that fact into consideration.

If you are capable (I'm not), you can create your own inventory system that is tailor made for you and your business.

So until then.

When is it not soap?

On April 30th we had our first market for the year. It was an enjoyable event. Always a pleasure meeting new vendors and of course the people that visit our booth. There was one woman in particular that picked up each bar and read the ingredients at the back. Kudos for her! I applaud her for taking an interest as to what goes on her skin.

For our body soaps we follow a basic recipe but what makes one bar different from the next is the additives we use. For example Aloe Vera, Activated Charcoal Coconut Milk or Honey.  There was one ingredient that caught her eye that was present in all of our soaps. And she asked quite simply "What is the purpose of the Sodium Hydroxide?" Yes. We do put on our label Sodium Hydroxide aka Lye. I went on to explain that soap is made by a chemical reaction (Saponification) between Oils and Sodium hydroxide (lye). This is how true soap is made.

Now I can imagine some of you are taking a closer look at your ingredients on your soap at this point and thinking "There is no lye here." Take a closer look.

Some soapmakers do not put sodium hydroxide on their labels because there is no lye in a finished product. That is to say once the chemical action is complete and the lye and oil molecules have combined the end products are soap and glycerin. So the active ingredient sodium hydroxide is no more. So how do they label their products? Read your label. If you see the words saponified oils of  Coconut, Olive, Cocoa butter then yes sodium hydroxide has been used.

Soap made with Coconut Milk and Turmeric

Well my bar doesn't have any saponified oils listed. Maybe not. Does your bar contain any of the following?
Sodium Cocoate - Generic name for Coconut oil mixed with Sodium Hydroxide.
Sodium Tallowate - Generic term for Tallow mixed with Sodium Hydroxide.
Sodium Palmate - Generic term for Palm oil mixed with Sodium Hydroxide.

It's not only important to read the label but also to understand what it is you are reading.Why is it labelled in such a manner? Well if you don't understand the soap making process, Sodium Hydroxide can be quite a terrifying word to see on your list of ingredients. But once the soap is made by an experienced soapmaker you have no reason to be fearful. All three methods of labeling are perfectly legal.

Why do we choose to put Sodium hydroxide on our labels? Well think of it this way. When you bake a cake you add your ingredients such as flour, eggs, milk, sugar and extract. If you were to sell that cake you would list your ingredients as such. In the same manner we list all the ingredients that go into the making our product.

Soap made with Cocoa Butter and Cocoa Nibs

What is soap? True soap is a substance used for washing that's made from a combination of oils and lye. Sodium hydroxide for bar soaps, Potassium hydroxide for liquid soaps or a combination of both.

Now that we understand what soap is when is it not soap?  I think the answer is now obvious. If it wasn't made using lye and oils then it isn't soap. This is a non - soap bar also called synthetic detergents. These products are either partially or completely made up of synthetic materials. Now what do we mean by synthetic? Here we mean any product that is made by chemical synthesis to imitate a natural product. In this case the natural product is soap. What are these products called if not soap? Beauty bars, moisturizing bars or cleansing bars. They can be called anything but not soap.

Lets take a look at one of these products. Aveeno Moisturizing bar. If you look at the ingredient listing you would notice that it doesn't list sodium hydroxide, saponified oils or the product of a soponified oil.

It does contain Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate. This is an ingredient used in many skin and hair products. It is a degreaser, emulsifier and foaming agent. Another ingredient is Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate. This is a surfactant that is derived from coconut oil. Sodium Tricedeth Sulfate - Surfactant - Cleansing agent, Emulsifying agent, Foaming agent.

Other ingredients include: Oat kernel flour, Water, Stearic Acid (thickener/hardener), Glycerin (Humectant) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Titanium Dioxide (Pigment) Citric Acid (AHA, PH adjuster and shelf stability) and Hydrogenated Castor Oil ( Emollient). If you look closer at the label itself, you would see that this product is described as soap free.

Both soap and non soap cleansers achieve the purpose for which it was made.  That is to say they both clean by attaching itself to dirt and excess oil on the skin to be washed away. The main difference is that non soap bars are made using synthetic chemicals as part of or all of their ingredients. In some cases sodium hydroxide is added to react with the chemicals to produce a non soap bar.

Well if sodium hydroxide is being added how would I know if it is a soap or non soap? Simply look at the ingredients. On a bar of soap the first few ingredients would include water, and the oils used in the making of the product. Whereas in a non soap's first few ingredients would be usually a surfactant or a degreaser.

So which one do you choose? This is a personal choice. It's been said that soaps clean better as the ingredients tend to be stronger than a non soap bar. It's also been said for that very same reason that non soap is gentler on the skin. This may be true for commercial soap, but a well formulated bar of handmade soap can be just as gentle as your favourite bar of non soap. How? In one word superfat. Superfatting is the process of adding more fats  to a recipe so that there is more fat in the mixture than the lye can react with during saponification. The end result is a gentle, moisturizing skin friendly bar of soap. It's your body. Your skin. Do what feels best for it.

Definitions.

Emollient - A preparation or substance that has a softening or soothing effect when applied to the skin.
Emulsifying Agent - A compound or substance that acts as a stabilizer for both water and oil and enables oils to be uniformly dispersed in water as an emulsion preventing it form separating.
Degreaser - A chemical product that dissolves water insoluble.
Humectant - A substance that absorbs or helps another substance to retain moisture.
Hydrogenated - To treat or combine chemically unsaturated compounds with hydrogen. Liquid vegetable oils are often hydrogenated to turn them to solids.
Saponification - is the alkaline hydrolysis of the fatty acid esters.
Surfactant - Are compounds that lower the surface tension between two liquids or between a liquid and a solid.

Introduction To Comestic Clay

Today's topic is about an ingredient that we use in our soaps and have plans to introduce you to in other products. Clay. What do you think of when you hear that word? Well the definition of a clay is a stiff sticky fine grained earth. And this is definition remains true whether it is clay to be molded or cosmetic clays. There are a variety of cosmetic clays available but we would just touch on a few of the more familiar ones.

Each cosmetic clay has its own benefits that is unique to it dependent upon its origin and properties, but in general they:

• Cleans
• Exfoliates
• Absorbs oils
• Draws toxins

Clays today are used in masks, wraps, cleansers, shampoos and yes soaps. So which clay is the right clay for your skin. Let's take a look at some of the clays for different skin types, their benefits and uses. Some clays can be used both externally and internally but today we are only covering external uses

Betonite Clay    Recommended for oily and acne prone skin. There are two types - Sodium and Calcium Betonite. Calcium Betonite particles are smaller than that of Sodium and are more effective when used internally.

It is used for:

• Hair care
• Skin care
• Bruises
• Insect bites and stings

Kaolin Clay White Kaolin clay is one of the most recommended clays and is considered to be ideal for people with sensitive skin. Ideal for a gentle exfoliation this clay is used in Shaving creams and soaps to give slip.

Kaolin Yellow While it has a stronger absorption than White it still has a soft texture is gentle and is safe for most skin types.

Red Kaolin  With more drawing power than other Kaolin this is more suited for oily skin. It can be used in soaps, wraps and masks. It shouldn't however, because of it's strong drawing power; be used more than once a week for facials.

Pink Kaolin A careful blend of both Red and white recommended for normal skin.

French Green Clay A dark green clay that is Ideal for facial masks and body and hair wraps. It is a mild exfoliant and has detoxification properties. Recommended for normal to oily skin types.

Rose Clay This is my personal favourite. With its beautiful colour it is a soft and gentle exfoliating properties. Recommended for persons with dry, sensitive, mature and normal skin types. It draws toxins without diminishing the skin's moisture. It's a great cleanser and wonderful in scrubs masks and soaps.

Rhassoul Clay Our piece wouldn't be complete if we don't touch on this clay. Rich in minerals this remarkable clay is used in both skin and hair products. It is considered to be one of the best treatments for oily skin


It's easy so easy to make facial scrubs and masks using cosmetic clay. Most of the time we can use the everyday ingredients we can find in our kitchens.

Facial scrub:
 1 Tbs Oatmeal powder
 1 Tbs sugar
 2 Tbs Rose clay ( or the clay of your choice)
 1 Tbs Sweet Almond oil
 2 Tbs milk (whole milk yoghurt or buttermilk can also be used.
1/2 tsp honey.

Mix dry ingredients together. add milk, oil and honey. More milk can be added if needed. Rinse face with warm water. Gently rub over the face avoiding eyes and wash off with warm water.

Facial mask:

2 Tbs Rose Clay
6 Tbs Honey
1 drop Essential oil

Simply mix clay with honey and add essential oil. Wet face with warm water. Apply mask to face in a circular motion. Rinse off with warm water.

Simple Face mask recipe:
2 Tbs Rosewater (cucumber water, milk)
Ttbs French Green Clay (or the clay of your choice)
1 drop Essential Oil (Lavender, Tea Tree or Chamomile)

Simply mix ingredients together. Apply to face and let set for 10 minutes. Wash off with warm water and pat face dry.

Try mixing your clay with herbal teas for a detoxifying body wrap. Or reap the benefits of adding it to your warm bath for relaxing detox bath. Because of its drawing powers always remember to keep a glass of cool water nearby when doing a detox treatment.

When choosing a clay always ensure that the clay is of a cosmetic grade. Consult with your supplier to make certain you are purchasing the right clay for your skin type. And finally as with any skin care product always test it on a small portion of your skin for any allergic reactions.